Solutions for Classroom Challenges: Voices from the Training Community
Ask ten trainers a question and you’ll get ten different answers!
If you would like to contribute a response or a suggestion for a topic to be covered in this series email jamiemckay@optonline.net
This challenge was suggested by Deborah A. Jones PhD:
How many trainers have changed their views of how dogs learn to interact with the larger world? Instead of “how can I make my dog interact with anyone at any time” I’ve come to redefine that question as “how can I help my dog become more comfortable in a variety of social situations”. With my last handful of puppies, I’ve done more passive exposure than active socialization. How do you approach this with owners?
Elizabeth ‘Kizz’ Robinson CDBC, CPDT-KA, Family Dog Mediator
I work in a very dense urban environment so it’s hard to control the intensity of the pup’s exposure to new things. Because of that I use food to make good, calming associations with surprising things like loud noises, exciting things like food that’s everywhere on the street, and frustrating things like seeing other dogs and not being able to greet them. I teach my clients a game called Watching the World Go By where they find a quiet place to sit where people, dogs, and other things can’t come too close to them. Sometimes it’s their front stoop, or a park bench, or even inside the home with a window or door slightly open. They sit with their pup and some super yummy food that’s easily accessible but out of sight of the pup. They watch their puppy’s body language and each time their pup notices (sees, hears, sniffs) something interesting they offer a small piece of food and then they both go back to watching again. I used to advocate doing 10-15 mins of that a couple of times a day but these days we’re seeing that shorter practices and plenty of rest and calm afterward is a better way to help that learning land.
Karen Reilly, CPDT KSA, CNWI
Paws For Obedience, Mamaroneck, NY
I agree. I suggest to my clients that the importance of socialization is not interacting with everyone or every dog. Rather supported exposure to a variety of scenarios. Watching the pup’s reactions and being mindful of not overdoing the exposure. Asking the pups to perform known behaviors when they appear comfortable or relaxed such as a hand target, sit, look etc. if those are reliable. Always setting the pup/dog for success. And knowing when it’s time to happily end a session.
Recently, an owner in my Help For Your Shy Dog class mentioned that in the past she had taken her dog multiple times to places like Home Depot to socialize her. The dog would shut down in those environments and not accept treats. The owner was doing what she was told to do….expose her dog to different places. The dog now has a fear of new places and worries about doors. Otherwise fortunately, the dog is comfortable and happy to interact with people and other dogs. She has been able to continue taking classes although sometimes the dog “worries” in the facility. My focus was on how to move forward supporting her dog and increase her comfort should she need to go to new places. However, this interaction reminded me of when I became an instructor and offered puppy classes.
When I first became an instructor, the curriculum included giving puppy owners a scavenger hunt check list. The list included items like meet people of different sexes and ethnicities, meet people wearing hats, meet, children, visit a store, walk up to a mailbox, see a garbage truck etc. At the end of the session, I awarded a prize to whoever had exposed their puppy to the most items on the list. To the owner who did the least I gave poop bags. At least, everyone laughed at this including the poop bag recipient.
However, I soon became uncomfortable with the scavenger hunt check list. As an owner of a shy dog that had concerns about certain noises and children, I became more invested in promoting quality over quantity. I discuss body language and what to do should your puppy/dog show concern about a new experience. New experiences could be simply meeting a stranger or even visiting a place where there is a lot of noise and activity. In my puppy class, I do attempt to expose the pups to different surfaces, objects and experiences. I tell the owner’s it’s more about knowing how to support your puppy when they don’t want to approach the person in the wheelchair or don’t walk on the very low to the floor plank (for examples) than it is to have them meet the person or traverse the obstacle. It’s very low key and fun so everyone has some success. I talk about watching the world go by. As the student’s progress in their training, we discuss taking it on the road and how they may need distance at first from distractions to be successful. I like to say distance can be your friend!
Owners who obtain older puppies and/or adult dogs sometimes feel the need to socialize them. A few of our area rescues/shelters transport dogs from over-crowded rural area shelters for adoption. Some of these dogs have trouble adapting to a busier environment. I talk about “remedial socialization” and when exposing to new experiences consider how their puppy/dog is experiencing it.
I talk about playing with their pups and dogs, changing the picture and how to use food at times to help calm their dogs and/or redirect them to an activity like sniffing. Discussing body language and giving guidance as to how to support their dogs is important as they transition to their new environments.
While it is my job to introduce training, I feel building relationships between dog and owner supports that even at first if we don’t get a perfect stay or other cue we’re working on!!
APDT Chronicles
Solutions for Classroom Challenges: Voices from the Training Community
Ask ten trainers a question and you’ll get ten different answers!
If you would like to contribute a response or a suggestion for a topic to be covered in this series email jamiemckay@optonline.net
This challenge was suggested by Deborah A. Jones PhD:
How many trainers have changed their views of how dogs learn to interact with the larger world? Instead of “how can I make my dog interact with anyone at any time” I’ve come to redefine that question as “how can I help my dog become more comfortable in a variety of social situations”. With my last handful of puppies, I’ve done more passive exposure than active socialization. How do you approach this with owners?
Elizabeth ‘Kizz’ Robinson CDBC, CPDT-KA, Family Dog Mediator
I work in a very dense urban environment so it’s hard to control the intensity of the pup’s exposure to new things. Because of that I use food to make good, calming associations with surprising things like loud noises, exciting things like food that’s everywhere on the street, and frustrating things like seeing other dogs and not being able to greet them. I teach my clients a game called Watching the World Go By where they find a quiet place to sit where people, dogs, and other things can’t come too close to them. Sometimes it’s their front stoop, or a park bench, or even inside the home with a window or door slightly open. They sit with their pup and some super yummy food that’s easily accessible but out of sight of the pup. They watch their puppy’s body language and each time their pup notices (sees, hears, sniffs) something interesting they offer a small piece of food and then they both go back to watching again. I used to advocate doing 10-15 mins of that a couple of times a day but these days we’re seeing that shorter practices and plenty of rest and calm afterward is a better way to help that learning land.
Karen Reilly, CPDT KSA, CNWI
Paws For Obedience, Mamaroneck, NY
I agree. I suggest to my clients that the importance of socialization is not interacting with everyone or every dog. Rather supported exposure to a variety of scenarios. Watching the pup’s reactions and being mindful of not overdoing the exposure. Asking the pups to perform known behaviors when they appear comfortable or relaxed such as a hand target, sit, look etc. if those are reliable. Always setting the pup/dog for success. And knowing when it’s time to happily end a session.
Recently, an owner in my Help For Your Shy Dog class mentioned that in the past she had taken her dog multiple times to places like Home Depot to socialize her. The dog would shut down in those environments and not accept treats. The owner was doing what she was told to do….expose her dog to different places. The dog now has a fear of new places and worries about doors. Otherwise fortunately, the dog is comfortable and happy to interact with people and other dogs. She has been able to continue taking classes although sometimes the dog “worries” in the facility. My focus was on how to move forward supporting her dog and increase her comfort should she need to go to new places. However, this interaction reminded me of when I became an instructor and offered puppy classes.
When I first became an instructor, the curriculum included giving puppy owners a scavenger hunt check list. The list included items like meet people of different sexes and ethnicities, meet people wearing hats, meet, children, visit a store, walk up to a mailbox, see a garbage truck etc. At the end of the session, I awarded a prize to whoever had exposed their puppy to the most items on the list. To the owner who did the least I gave poop bags. At least, everyone laughed at this including the poop bag recipient.
However, I soon became uncomfortable with the scavenger hunt check list. As an owner of a shy dog that had concerns about certain noises and children, I became more invested in promoting quality over quantity. I discuss body language and what to do should your puppy/dog show concern about a new experience. New experiences could be simply meeting a stranger or even visiting a place where there is a lot of noise and activity. In my puppy class, I do attempt to expose the pups to different surfaces, objects and experiences. I tell the owner’s it’s more about knowing how to support your puppy when they don’t want to approach the person in the wheelchair or don’t walk on the very low to the floor plank (for examples) than it is to have them meet the person or traverse the obstacle. It’s very low key and fun so everyone has some success. I talk about watching the world go by. As the student’s progress in their training, we discuss taking it on the road and how they may need distance at first from distractions to be successful. I like to say distance can be your friend!
Owners who obtain older puppies and/or adult dogs sometimes feel the need to socialize them. A few of our area rescues/shelters transport dogs from over-crowded rural area shelters for adoption. Some of these dogs have trouble adapting to a busier environment. I talk about “remedial socialization” and when exposing to new experiences consider how their puppy/dog is experiencing it.
I talk about playing with their pups and dogs, changing the picture and how to use food at times to help calm their dogs and/or redirect them to an activity like sniffing. Discussing body language and giving guidance as to how to support their dogs is important as they transition to their new environments.
While it is my job to introduce training, I feel building relationships between dog and owner supports that even at first if we don’t get a perfect stay or other cue we’re working on!!
